Sofle V2 Build Guide
Hey, if you’re reading this, you’ve hopefully just received a shiny new Sofle V2 kit from Mechboards!
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Hey, if you’re reading this, you’ve hopefully just received a shiny new Sofle V2 kit from Mechboards!
Last updated
Was this helpful?
This build guide features the low profile variant of the Sofle V2, but the build guide should be the same for the MX variant too!
First things first, let’s check you’ve got everything that should have been included in the kit. If there’s anything missing, send us a message so we can get you back to the build ASAP! (Spares are included in the contents)
1 x PCB
2 x Acrylic OLED cover
60 x Mini-E LED
2 x Switch plate
60 x SMD diode
14 x Underglow LED
2 x Frosted acrylic backplate
60 x Hotswap socket
2 x OLED screen
1 x TRRS cable
2 x Rotary encoder + knob
2 x SMD power switch
2 x Zener diode
2 X 15Ω resistor
2 x OLED socket
4 x Controller socket
2 x Reset switch
2 x TRRS jack
50 x Mill-max pin
10 x Rubber feet
12x 6/8mm standoff (choc/MX)
5 x 12mm standoff
16 x 4mm screws
16 x 6mm screws
There are a couple of parts that are required for the build that aren't included in the kit, hopefully you've already got these:
60 x Switches of your choice
2 x Pro-micro or equivalent controller
1 x Set of keycaps
Here's a list of the tools you need to build the keyboard:
Soldering iron
Phillips head screwdriver (M2)
Tweezers
Solder
The first components to add to the PCB are the SMD diodes. We can get started by applying a small amount of solder to one of the pads we're attaching the diodes to, as shown below:
Once the pads all soldered, we can add the diodes by heating the already placed solder with our iron and gently placing a diode leg into the solder and then leaving it to harden in place. The line on the diode should be facing the same side as the line on the PCB, as pictured below:
Now we just have to solder the remaining diode legs to their pads:
The second component we're adding are the underglow LEDs, these are bit more sensitive to heat, so I'd recommend keeping your iron at or below 300°C, this way it'll be a little bit harder to melt them! We'll begin by again, applying a small amount of solder to one of the pads as shown below:
Once the pads are soldered, we can repeat the same process used for the diodes, heating one pad, placing the LED pad onto the solder, and then allowing the solder to harden. Be sure that the small cut out on the front of the LED matches the markings on the PCB, like this:
Once they're all in place, we can solder the remaining pads:
Next up are the per-key (Mini-E) LEDs, these are bit more sensitive to heat, so I'd recommend keeping your iron at or below 300°C, this way it'll be a little bit harder to melt them! We'll begin by again, applying a small amount of solder to one of the pads as shown below:
Now that the pads are ready, we can again, gently heat one pad, place the LED leg into the solder, and then allow the solder to set. Make sure the small cut-out on one of the legs matches the marking on the PCB, like this:
Once the LEDs are all in place, we can go ahead and solder the remaining legs to their respective pads:
Now for the hotswap sockets, I tend to find it easiest to place all of the sockets in their outlined positions and then solder them into place one side at a time.
