Hyper7 R4 Build Guide (Enclosed Case)
Congratulations on receiving your Hyper7, the journey ahead is long and arduous, but it'll be worth it, I promise!
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Congratulations on receiving your Hyper7, the journey ahead is long and arduous, but it'll be worth it, I promise!
Last updated
Was this helpful?
Hyper7 R4 PCB
Hyper7 enclosed case
Hyper7 plate
Foam
17 x Case screws
(Up to) 220 x Switches
(Up to) 34 x Stabilisers
USB extender
Handle with washers and nuts
Feet x 6
Keycaps
Check Contents: We'd like to think everyone will have exactly what they need, but we're only human, we make mistakes. Please check through everything you've received to make sure there's nothing missing/damaged and let us know if there's something we've messed up on!
Check Alignment + Remove Plate Vinyl: We'll try to check this too, but it's worth checking the screw holes on the plate line-up with the holes on the case, they should be as pictured below:
If they're not quite close enough, don't be afraid to give the plate a little bend to get them into place. Trust me, it'll survive. We can also remove the protective vinyl on the plate.
Check PCB: Last little QC here, please plug in the PCB to make sure it's working, feel free to pop in a couple of switches to check keypresses are being registered too!
Installing Stabilisers: First off is the stabilisers, if you're using GMK, clipping them is absolutely essential (if you're unsure on how to do this, please watch ). Now we can begin to insert and screw them in, if you've built keyboards in the past this should be a nice, easy and monotonous task!
Installing Switches: Next up, add switches to a few locations around the plate, roughly around the corners and middle sections will help the most.
Now turn over the plate and very carefully push the PCB onto the switches, make sure the plastic pins are lined up with the holes on the PCB, this will be the best indicator for the metal pins lining up with the hotswap sockets. Please take care whilst doing this, if the switch pins are not aligned properly the hotswap sockets can become damaged and will require soldering to replace them.
Once the PCB is attached, you can turn it all over again and insert the rest of the switches one by one, continuing to make sure the pins are aligned with the hotswap sockets.
Installing USB Extender + Handle: Now we need to plug the USB extender into the PCB and attach the handle to the case top. This should be nice and simple, but will be a lot tougher/impossible if it's not done now.
Installing Plate onto Case Bottom: We can now turn over the plate and gently place the case bottom on top, with all of our screw holes we checked earlier (You checked them in step 1. Right?) lining up perfectly.
Now screw through the case bottom into the plate, we recommend screwing them all loosely first (starting with opposing corners) and then tightening them after.
Connecting USB Extender to Case + Inserting Foam: Next, turn the case + plate the right way around and screw in the other end of the USB extender into the top case. This is also the best time to insert your foam under the PCB!
Installing Case Top: Now to finish off the case, take the case top and bring to over the top of the rest of the build. Screw in the 4 screws on the back, and the 5 on the bottom. We're almost there!
Installing Keycaps: Finally, you can now pop the keycaps on with your chosen layout/legends. Do not push your 2U keycaps too hard, this will result in a mushy stabiliser that will likely get stuck. If you find this is the case, remove the keycap and reapply it with less force.
Installing Feet: Pop on your feet however you'd like, we go for one in each corner and then one each in the middle on the top and bottom.
Plug and Play!: And that's it, you can now go ahead and customise all the keys to your hearts content!
