# Wireless Sofle V2 Build Guide *This build guide features the choc (low profile) variant of the Sofle V2, but the build guide will be the same for the MX variant too!* ## Contents of the Kit: First things first, let’s check we've got everything included in the kit. If there’s anything missing, send us a message [here](https://mechboards.co.uk/pages/faq) so we can get you back to the build ASAP! (Spares are included in the contents below) | 1 x PCB | 2 x Reset switch | 2 x nRF52840 BLE Controller | | ----------------------------- | ----------------------------- | --------------------------- | | 2 x Switch plate | 2 x Rotary encoder + knob | 4 x Controller socket | | 2 x Frosted acrylic backplate | 5 x 12mm Standoff | 50 x Mill-max pins | | 2 x Acrylic OLED cover | 12 x 6/8mm Standoff (choc/MX) | 2 x MiP screen + socket | | 60 x SMD diode | 16 x 4mm Screws | 2 x 110mAh LiPo battery | | 60 x Hotswap socket | 16 x 6mm Screws | 10 x Rubber feet |

## Other Parts Required: There are a couple of parts that are required for the build that aren't included in the kit, hopefully you've already got these: | 60 x Switches of your choice | 1 x Set of keycaps | | | ---------------------------- | ------------------ | - |

## Tools Required: Here's a list of the tools you need to build the keyboard: | | | | | -------------- | ------------------------------ | -------- | | Soldering iron | Phillips head screwdriver (M2) | Tweezers | | Solder | Snippers/Wire Strippers | |

## Making the Sofle V2: ### Step 1: SMD Diodes The first components to add to the PCB are the SMD diodes. We can get started by applying a small amount of solder to one of the pads we're attaching the diodes to, as shown below:

Once the pads all tinned (soldered), we can add the diodes by melting the already placed solder with our iron and gently placing a diode leg into the solder and then leaving it to harden in place. The line on the diode should be facing the same side as the line on the PCB, as pictured below:

Now we just have to solder the remaining diode legs to their pads:

### Step 2: Hotswap Sockets Now for the hotswap sockets, I tend to find it easiest to place all of the sockets in their outlined positions and then solder them into place one side at a time.

### Step 3: Socketing Controller and MiP Screen {% hint style="info" %} **We recommend flashing your controller before beginning this step, just to check it's in a working condition. If you're unsure how to do this, check out our wired pre-build page, this has instructions on how to flash your controller:** [**Wireless Pre-Builds**](https://guides-mechboards.gitbook.io/guides/getting-started/wireless-pre-builds#files) {% endhint %} Next is getting our controllers onto the board. The new Sofle V2 kits include machine pin sockets and pins, we recommend using them to make replacing/upgrading your controllers easy. \ First off, insert the sockets into the top side of the PCB (opposite to the side with the hotswap sockets), soldering the top and bottom pins to secure them. {% hint style="danger" %} **Be careful to only adjust using the middle of the sockets, heating the solder can cause the end pins to become very hot** {% endhint %}

From here we can heat the solder on these pins and readjust them until they're flat and straight:

Now that we've got the sockets in position, we can solder the rest of them. Once we've secured the sockets, we can insert our socket pins. I'd recommend placing the pins into the sockets with tweezers, and then using something flat to push the pins in completely, being careful not to bend them. Here I'm using the other end of the tweezers:

Once we've got the pins into position we can place the controllers component side down onto the pins/sockets, from here we can solder the controller to the pins (being careful not to heat them for too long, as this can cause the solder to travel down the pin and flood the socket): {% hint style="warning" %} When using our controllers, make sure the pins start at the bottom of the controller, leaving the top holes empty! {% endhint %}

The MiP screen sockets are a similar process to the controller sockets, soldering one pin, heating/adjusting, and soldering the remaining pins:

The screens also require soldering, it's as simple as popping the header pins in and soldering them:

### Step 4: Other Components Now we've got a few different components to add on, the process for all of these will be similar to the previous steps! First are the reset switches, these tend to stay in place with the friction from the pins once inserted:

Secondly, we're adding the power switches, these are quite small so make sure to be gentle! \ It's easiest to solder a pad first, and then heat it and attach the switch, just like with the SMD diodes:

Next up are the batteries, first off we're going to snip the wires to a suitable length, so that they can connect to and fit under the controller:

Once they're snipped we can strip back a bit of wire for us to solder to the PCB:

{% hint style="danger" %} Be careful not to let the two wires touch here, this could damage the battery (or yourself!) {% endhint %} Now, we can solder these wires to the top two holes on the PCB, near the controller, and slide the battery underneath:

{% hint style="warning" %} If the battery is struggling to fit underneath the controller, don't be afraid to gently lift the pins partially out of the sockets to create more space! {% endhint %}

Finally, we can solder the rotary encoders, using the same method as above. It's worth noting the bigger pins are purely for support, so they don't have to be soldered perfectly:

Once they're soldered, we can push on the rotary encoder cap! {% hint style="warning" %} **Now is a good time to give your build a test, so you can troubleshoot any issues before screwing the case together. Feel free to get in contact if you run into any issues.** {% endhint %} ### Step 5: Installing Switches and Assembling Case Almost there now, just a couple more steps to go! We're going to start by screwing our 6mm (choc) or 8mm (MX) standoffs onto the frosted acrylic bottom plate, using the 6mm screws.

IMAGE OF BOTTOM PLATES WITH STANDOFFS INSTALLED

Now we can grab our switch plates and pop a few switches into the plate, and then insert these switches into the PCB, being sure to check the pins are straight and aligned with the hotswap sockets: {% hint style="info" %} There's LEDs in these pictures from our wired guide, ignore them please! {% endhint %}

PUTTING PLATE WITH SWITCHES ON PCB/CHECKING ALIGNMENT

Once we've got our plate in place, we can begin to insert the rest of the switches. Sometimes the plate can drop in this process (mainly choc builds), but that's no worry, the plate tends to come back up when installing the keycaps, or we can use something thin to pop the plate back up into position:

Next up, we're putting the 12mm standoffs with 4mm screws onto the PCB, these will be what we're attaching our acrylic OLED covers with at the end of this step.

We can now finish assembling the case by placing the PCB and switch plates onto our pre-prepared bottom plates, and screw them together from the top, with 4mm screws.

IMAGE OF SCREWING BOTTOM AND TOP TOGETHER

Finally, we can screw on our acrylic OLED covers with the remaining 6mm screws: {% hint style="warning" %} Be careful not to screw these too tightly, acrylic is fragile! {% endhint %}

### Step 6: Installing Keycaps and Changing Layout Our final step here is a nice and easy one, we can now install our preferred set of keycaps!\ This is as simple as matching the keycaps to our layout of choice, and pushing them onto our switches.

And that's it, you should now have a complete Sofle V2 to get typing on!

Now the keyboard is fully built, you can move on to the wireless flashing guide {% content-ref url="../other-guides/controller-flashing-guide-nrf52840-wireless" %} [controller-flashing-guide-nrf52840-wireless](https://guides-mechboards.gitbook.io/guides/other-guides/controller-flashing-guide-nrf52840-wireless) {% endcontent-ref %}