Fauxmac Build Guide (Romac+)
How to build this little numpad/macropad thingy.
Parts included from top left to bottom right: Baseplate Switch plate WS2812B 5050 RGB LEDs x5 (1 spare!) Encoder, knob and reset switch Hardware pack and bumpons OLED 1n4148 diodes x15 (3 spare) Main PCB (Controller- purchased separately from kit) Acrylic layer (Not shown in picture)
Not included: Soldering kit Crosshead screwdriver Computer Switches x11 or x12 USB cable Haribo
Power switch if using Nice!nano - simple slide switch can be soldered on the top edge (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sourcingmap-Mount-Position-Horizontal-Switch/dp/B00O9YOEDC works) Battery if using Nice!nano - battery contacts near top of controller
RGB LEDs first - orientation marked in the photo. There are four positions for the LEDs.
Solder these at 300C or less to avoid damaging them. Tin one pad first, slide the LED into position, then go back and solder the other 3 corners.
These are entirely optional!
Diodes next- first 4 fitted in the photo. Black stripe on the body matches the white stripe of the silkscreen.
Easiest to fit them in groups of 4, soldering each set before moving to the next.
Pin headers for the controller next. Short side goes through- solder one pin first so you can reheat and get them straight, then solder the rest.
For RP2040 Controllers - Flashing Guide Leave the top two pins overhanging / soldered as it's longer than the Elite-C
For Atmega Controllers - You should flash your controller at this stage using QMK toolbox or the command line. Firmware will be in QMK and we aim to have VIA support too. For now use the hex and via json found here: https://github.com/keyboard-magpie/fauxmac-plus/tree/main/firmware (click the download raw file button)
Controller next. Make sure you orientate it like this, regardless if it's an Elite C, Elite Pi, Pro Micro or Nice!nano- chip should be visible.
Soldered nicely on all pins. I am lazy and leave the long pins untrimmed to protect the OLED screen a bit.
Optional step- apply a bit of tape to reduce chance of shorts between controller and OLED- you can repurpose the OLED's screen protector (the clear sticker with green tab) for this if you don't have any tape!
OLED soldered.
Reset button next. Make sure it's nice and parallel to the PCB so we don't get any case clashing issues.
Reset button soldered.
Encoder next. Only fits in one spot. Solder the 5 joints circled in pink- don't worry too much about the side legs.
Fit your switches- make sure no bent legs etc.
Solder your switches. Make sure you don't create any bridges between the different switch positions.
It's worth plugging in and testing everything at this stage before we close up the case.
Support bumpers. These stop the PCB from dipping when pressing the encoder button. One lines up with the OLED pins, the other lines up with the encoder.
Once you've done this, fit the standoffs with the small screws to each corner.
The standoffs go through the main PCB, and connect the switch plate to the base plate.
Of note, since photographing this guide, mechboards.co.uk have produced an acrylic mid-layer that would go in between the top and bottom case parts- I'll try and add a photo soon.
All finished and working.
Pretty picture!
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