# Fauxmac Build Guide (Romac+)

<figure><img src="/files/MMWyt9opvsGuhY4WMQWI" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

**Parts included** from top left to bottom right:\
Baseplate\
Switch plate\
WS2812B 5050 RGB LEDs x5 (1 spare!)\
Encoder, knob and reset switch\
Hardware pack and bumpons\
OLED\
1n4148 diodes x15 (3 spare)\
Main PCB\
(Controller- purchased separately from kit)\
Acrylic layer (Not shown in picture)

**Not included:**\
Soldering kit\
Crosshead screwdriver\
Computer\
Switches x11 or x12\
USB cable\
Haribo

Power switch if using Nice!nano - simple slide switch can be soldered on the top edge (<https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sourcingmap-Mount-Position-Horizontal-Switch/dp/B00O9YOEDC> works) Battery if using Nice!nano - battery contacts near top of controller

<figure><img src="/files/VyNo8mhPKh0qqEh3CO0M" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

RGB LEDs first - orientation marked in the photo. There are four positions for the LEDs.

Solder these at 300C or less to avoid damaging them. Tin one pad first, slide the LED into position, then go back and solder the other 3 corners.

These are entirely optional!

<figure><img src="/files/bx5B5J89VAqkDx5bJhfH" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Diodes next- first 4 fitted in the photo. Black stripe on the body matches the white stripe of the silkscreen.

Easiest to fit them in groups of 4, soldering each set before moving to the next.

<figure><img src="/files/cMgSxZhxfzyE9Ukagn0L" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Pin headers for the controller next. Short side goes through- solder one pin first so you can reheat and get them straight, then solder the rest.&#x20;

**For RP2040 Controllers** - [Flashing Guide](/guides/other-guides/controller-flashing-guide-rp2040-wired.md) \
Leave the top two pins overhanging / soldered as it's longer than the Elite-C

{% file src="/files/o1VpUEI0UYiv46BLma8V" %}

**For Atmega Controllers** - You should flash your controller at this stage using QMK toolbox or the command line. Firmware will be in QMK and we aim to have VIA support too. For now use the hex and via json found here: <https://github.com/keyboard-magpie/fauxmac-plus/tree/main/firmware> (click the download raw file button)

<figure><img src="/files/weP6s9SRhee6HpiHlFpr" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Controller next. Make sure you orientate it like this, regardless if it's an Elite C, Elite Pi, Pro Micro or Nice!nano- chip should be visible.<br>

<figure><img src="/files/L6updygc21WrL1YXPHPF" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Soldered nicely on all pins. I am lazy and leave the long pins untrimmed to protect the OLED screen a bit.

<figure><img src="/files/kDrkhP2j0CV0Bsx3y9Ym" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Optional step- apply a bit of tape to reduce chance of shorts between controller and OLED- you *can* repurpose the OLED's screen protector (the clear sticker with green tab) for this if you don't have any tape!

<figure><img src="/files/I4bdLq37oqlcI4tgZU2I" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

OLED soldered.

<figure><img src="/files/EWREAMcX62TVuF61NjVo" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Reset button next. Make sure it's nice and parallel to the PCB so we don't get any case clashing issues.

<figure><img src="/files/mO97AiRkDUQNLJuO28Ul" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Reset button soldered.

<figure><img src="/files/sZC5Co5v7304fMyXcESL" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Encoder next. Only fits in one spot. Solder the 5 joints circled in pink- don't worry too much about the side legs.

<figure><img src="/files/00BvoSvbbvsyqjqNfQmn" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Fit your switches- make sure no bent legs etc.

<figure><img src="/files/BnBJ2TUaCTbh9cdt4GOz" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Solder your switches. Make sure you don't create any bridges between the different switch positions.

It's worth plugging in and testing everything at this stage before we close up the case.

<figure><img src="/files/HZCh1T7WC3dlPY0QACjX" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Support bumpers. These stop the PCB from dipping when pressing the encoder button. One lines up with the OLED pins, the other lines up with the encoder.

Once you've done this, fit the standoffs with the small screws to each corner.

The standoffs go through the main PCB, and connect the switch plate to the base plate.

Of note, since photographing this guide, mechboards.co.uk have produced an acrylic mid-layer that would go in between the top and bottom case parts- I'll try and add a photo soon.

<figure><img src="/files/d7rfwz7W8jKPrUD55XZP" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

All finished and working.

<figure><img src="/files/YjxRF8WpeyE0jzpza5Tx" alt=""><figcaption></figcaption></figure>

Pretty picture!


---

# Agent Instructions: Querying This Documentation

If you need additional information that is not directly available in this page, you can query the documentation dynamically by asking a question.

Perform an HTTP GET request on the current page URL with the `ask` query parameter:

```
GET https://guides-mechboards.gitbook.io/guides/mbuk-build-guides/list-of-other-build-guides/fauxmac-build-guide-romac+.md?ask=<question>
```

The question should be specific, self-contained, and written in natural language.
The response will contain a direct answer to the question and relevant excerpts and sources from the documentation.

Use this mechanism when the answer is not explicitly present in the current page, you need clarification or additional context, or you want to retrieve related documentation sections.
